52nd Annual
MORA ENDURO

Mini Enduro
Date: 7/25/2009

Two separate courses will be available this year for the mini. Shorter, easier, more spectator friendly Premier, Girls and PeeWee course. Enduro Style!

Main Enduro
Date: 7/26/2009

Single loop approximately 60 miles

DNR sticker, spark arrestor and 96 db sound test is required to race

Get all the information for the event and lodging HERE

A $10 X-Rider Class will be available at the Mora Enduro for riders who have never signed up for an Enduro
Click HERE for all the information about the X-Rider Class and Enduro's in general

OUT OF WORK?

If you are interested in OHV Program Management, Marshall University has an accredited program. The next course, PLS 450 (undergraduate), 550 (graduate) Introduction to OHV Recreation (3 semester hours) will be held during the Fall Semester 2009 - beginning August 17, 2009 and ending December 14, 2009. This is an on-line course. Get all the information regarding this course at NOHVCC Click Here.

UPDATE ON CHILDREN'S OHV BAN:

The CPSC has voted for a stay of execution in the enforcement of the CPSIA which has banned youth ATV's, Motorcycle's and Snowmobile's for 2 years. However, the CPSC is not the only agency that can enforce this law. The CPSIA causes the machines to be classified as hazardous material which makes the units unable to be imported into the US. The Motorcycle Industry Council issued a statement earlier this week asking for a renewed effort to fix the law legislatively. View their statement HERE.

State of Minnesota Off-Road Motorcycle Laws

• Safety helmet required under age 18
• Eye protection required
• Riders under age 12 must be supervised by a person age of 18 or older on public lands
• Rider education certificate is required if under age 16
• Maximum sound level is 96 dba @ 20"
• Spark arrestor required

Maybe you've noticed that your aftermarket pipe is sounding a bit ratty lately.

Did you know that most pipe manufacturers expect you to repack mufflers from time to time? Because these mufflers use fiberglass (or something similar) as packing material while stock systems employ solid steel (or titanium) baffles, they don't last forever like OEM pieces. In fact, even original mufflers will degrade over time, with the moisture from combustion eventually corroding the internals with broken baffles being the most common result.

Fortunately, changing the packing material is easy. Check with the muffler manufacturer as most offer repacking kits which include everything you need. In addition you'll need a drill and a riveting tool.

Remove the muffler from the bike and place it on a clean surface. Follow the directions for your muffler, but generally you will need to gain access to the packing by separating the muffler body from the end cap. (1) Insert the drill bit (#30) into the drill and fit a drill stop if you have one. If you don't have a drill stop, wrap tape around the bit  approximately 10 mm from the tip. This will prevent you from drilling too far into the muffler body.

Carefully drill out the rivets. Usually, the rivet heads will pop off first, leaving a bit of the rivet body still in the hole, but don't worry about that. You can come back later and remove the rest of the rivet. If there's a retaining strap, remove it.

Sometimes the end caps are a tight fit into the muffler body, so some gentle persuasion with a plastic head hammer may be in order. Wearing gloves, gently pull the end cap from the muffler body. You don't want to get the fiberglass strands on your skin so be sure to wear gloves and maybe consider a long sleeve shirt. Remove the packing material and discard.

Tightly wrap the new mat around the core and test-fit the wrap in the muffler. Most kits come with more material than you can use, so don't be alarmed if there is excess. Secure the material with strips of masking tape. Yes, the tape will eventually burn off, but you really want the tape held tight to the core as you reassemble the muffler. You may need to trim excess mat from the end of the muffler with a razor blade.

Before you reassemble the muffler, check the rivet holes in the sleeve and the end cap for burrs and cracks, and shake out the old bits of rivet. Insert the new rivets and pull them. Check to make sure the rivet head is flat with the surface. Wipe the outside of the muffler with mineral spirits to keep the oil from your hands from etching the metal and don't be concerned if the pipe smokes for the first few miles; that's normal.

Now, doesn't that sound better?